Golden Hour: Redefined
Gold, in all its timeless elegance, took center stage at Watches & Wonders 2025, where some of the world’s most prestigious watchmakers unveiled their latest creations. From the legendary craftsmanship of Cartier to IWC's precision, Jaeger-LeCoultre's horological art, Piaget's vintage elegance, and Roger Dubuis’ bold engineering, these brands brought gold to life in ways that not only wowed watch aficionados but redefined the boundaries of luxury timepieces. Let’s dive into the glistening world of gold and discover how these icons are once again rewriting the rules of watchmaking.
A Golden Revival: Cartier’s Tank à Guichet Returns to Dazzle
If there’s one thing Cartier excels at, it’s reimagining timeless elegance. This year, they took it a step further with the golden revival of the elusive Tank à Guichet at Watches & Wonders 2025. Originally launched in 1928 as a radical rethinking of the Tank, this unique timepiece replaces the traditional dial with a sleek metal façade, featuring two discreet apertures that display the time—an innovative, minimalist design ahead of its time. Nearly a century later, Cartier has revived this iconic model in yellow gold, rose gold, and platinum, with a special limited edition of just 200 pieces. The Tank à Guichet blends old-school sophistication with modern intrigue, making it a must-have for collectors or anyone who appreciates luxury on their wrist. It’s not just a timepiece; it’s a statement in gold, whispering luxury while making a bold declaration.
Cartier also showcased its mastery in blending high jewelry with horology, first with the stunning Tressage collection. These timepieces transcend traditional watchmaking, featuring sculptural forms, intricate goldwork, and dazzling gemstones, turning each piece into a wearable masterpiece that exemplifies Cartier's dedication to creativity and craftsmanship. Meanwhile, the Panthère collection took animal-inspired elegance to new heights, with bold zebra and tiger patterns highlighted by black and golden-brown lacquer, pavé diamonds, and vibrant spessartites. The Panthère Jewellery Watch elevated this design with its ‘Toi & Moi’ bracelet, featuring a three-dimensional panther on one side and a diamond-paved timepiece on the other—blending feline dynamism with pure luxury. Not to be outdone, Cartier also unveiled a bold update to the Tank Louis Cartier, introducing a larger case size that respects the watch's iconic proportions while integrating the new 1899 MC automatic movement, ensuring it remains a perfect fusion of tradition, innovation, and timeless elegance. Each of these pieces reinforces Cartier’s commitment to pushing the limits of both art and watchmaking.
IWC Schaffhausen’s Ingenieur Gets a Compact Upgrade
It’s not just Cartier leading the charge—IWC Schaffhausen also joined the golden revolution with a sleek, downsized version of their legendary Ingenieur. The new 35 mm edition of the Ingenieur Automatic retains all the signature design elements from Gérald Genta’s 1970s masterpiece, including the integrated bracelet, bold case geometry, and impeccable finishing. This smaller version is a testament to the fact that precision engineering doesn’t have to be oversized to make an impact. Available in three stunning renditions—18-carat 5N gold, sleek stainless steel, and a silver-plated dial—the Ingenieur 35mm is a watch that combines elegance with sports performance. With this release, IWC proves that good things come in smaller, gold-wrapped packages.
Jaeger-LeCoultre’s Masterpieces: A Symphony of Time
Jaeger-LeCoultre wasn’t to be outdone, revealing a stunning range of timepieces that showcase the art of horology at its finest. The Reverso Tribute Monoface in pink gold paired with a Milanese bracelet is the epitome of elegance, combining the classic with the contemporary. For the jetsetter, the Reverso Tribute Duoface Small Seconds offers two timezones in one stunning timepiece, while the Reverso Tribute Minute Repeater creates an auditory masterpiece, chiming out time with its exquisite minute repeater. The Reverso Tribute Geographic brings the world’s time to your wrist, with dual timezones in a sleek, travel-ready design. At the top of the collection, the Reverso Hybris Artistica Calibre 179 dazzles as a work of horological art, blending intricate mechanics with decorative finesse. Rounding out the collection, the Reverso Ones’ pay tribute to Art Deco, with their geometric designs and luxurious finishes. Jaeger-LeCoultre’s 2025 collection is a celebration of time itself, fusing innovation and tradition in gold.
Piaget’s Sixtie: A Golden Age of Elegance
Piaget continued the golden theme with the Sixtie collection, a dazzling nod to the era of effortless glamour, reimagined for today’s connoisseur. With ultra-thin craftsmanship, sunburst dials, and polished gold cases, the Sixtie collection brings retro luxury into the modern world. A true tribute to vintage elegance with a contemporary twist, these timepieces shine with a golden glow that makes them perfect for any occasion—whether you’re sipping cocktails or making power moves. Piaget proves that the past isn’t just remembered—it’s reborn.
Roger Dubuis’ Excalibur Grande Complication: Engineering Meets Art
Finally, Roger Dubuis made waves at Watches & Wonders with their Excalibur Grande Complication, a bold new chapter in haute horology. This striking timepiece combines the best of both worlds—artistry and engineering. Featuring a skeletonized dial, the Excalibur Grande Complication showcases a flying tourbillon, minute repeater, and perpetual calendar, all within a single timepiece. Its architectural design is both bold and refined, with a combination of high-tech materials like titanium and gold. This technical marvel is more than just a watch; it’s a statement piece, a true work of art that symbolizes a new era in watchmaking.
As the curtains draw on this year’s Watches and Wonders, one thing is clear—gold is not just a material, it’s a statement. From contemporary masterpieces to heritage-inspired icons, gold watches continue to embody the pinnacle of craftsmanship, innovation, and timeless elegance. Whether it’s rose, yellow, or white gold, each timepiece unveiled this season speaks to the enduring allure of precious metals in haute horology. As trends evolve, the glow of gold remains constant—refined, radiant, and forever coveted.